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If you decide that these dogs are going to be your life, and your involved with this breed for any length of time you will undoubtedly experience the occasional yard accident, with this in mind it will be necessary to treat minor and severe wounds. The cost of staying uniformed as to the correct manor in which to treat these wounds can be very expensive in terms of vet bills and the worst case scenario, loss of your dog's life. One thing I have personally noticed in recent times is that many people are getting away from the basic treatments and they are using odd ball ideas with no legitimate reason behind these ideas; therefore, this article will deal with getting back to the basic treatments and the time proven techniques that work.
There are two very basic wounds that will need to be dealt with sometime in your career, LACERATIONS and PUNCTURE type wounds. I will begin with lacerations, these are the wounds that deal with torn skin, they can vary in length, depth, and width, regardless as to the severity, the actions you will need to take will be very similar in nature. The first thing you will need to do is clean the wound with Hydrogen Peroxide, wait a few minutes after applying the Hydrogen Peroxide then flush the wound with warm water. NOTE: only use the Hydrogen Peroxide ONCE and every time there after that you flush the wound you will use a strong Batedine solution. You will want to flush this wound 3 times per/day and in between these flushings you will want to pack the wound with Nitrofurizone dressing.

Depending upon the severity of the wound, depth, etc, etc you will need to decide if you want to close the wound after it has been cleaned by either using sutures or staples. (Note: never use blood stop in laceration or puncture type wounds, actually you would be better off to through your blood stop powder away, I have seen a vast amount of complications concerning the use of this product, your better off without it) This decision must be made immediately because you CAN NOT close an old wound, if you do decide to close this wound by either sutures or staples always start closing this wound in the middle of the wound, never start closing at either ends of the wound. Put one stitch in the middle and work your way outward toward the ends, example, one stitch in the middle, then one to the right of that first stitch, then one to the left of the first stitch, working back and forth, right, left, right, left. Once you get close to the end of the wound leave a small portion open for the wound to drain, also you will be able to use this opening to flush the wound, DO NOT CLOSE THE WOUND COMPLETELY.
The second most common wound that you will one-day need to deal with will be the puncture type wounds. These are the types of wounds that cause the most problems for your dog; they are the types of wounds that more often become abscessed lesions. To begin with, flush out the puncture wound with Hydrogen Peroxide, again ONLY ONCE, and every time there after that you clean the wound by flushing it you will use Batedine. The biggest mistake that people makeconcerning punctures and the reason they become abscessed lesions is that the wound is ALLOWED to close over at the top BEFORE it has healed underneath, bacteria is trapped inside, pus is formed and a swelling is created, there are no antibiotics that will clear up an abscess once it has formed unless it is lanced.

To avoid the necessity of lancing the wound, it must be kept open and allowed to heal from the inside out, in order to do this, take a Q-Tip and insert the Q-Tip into the puncture wound three times per/day after you clean and flush the wound, just insert the Q-Tip into the wound and roll it around within the wound for a few seconds, then take out the Q-Tip, this will remove any necrotic tissue (dead tissue) and the wound will heal from the inside out, this may take two weeks.
If the wound does develop an abscess it must be lanced, clean the area to be lanced with alcohol then take a scalpel and make an incision VERTICALLY along the wound, do not make an incision horizontally, by making the incision VERTICALLY you will allow the wound to drain using gravity, also you will now need to flush this wound and squeeze the wound three times per/day along with inserting the Q-Tips so that the wound does not close up at the top as it previously did.
Mouth wounds, these are by far the most troublesome wounds to deal with because quite often they are not discovered until a very severe infection in already involved. The mouth must always be checked after any accident has taken place. If you notice any wounds, they must be dealt with immediately; the very real problem with mouth wounds is keeping these wounds clean. The best way that I have personally found to treat these wounds is to flush them with salt-water solutions (1 tablespoon of salt to 10cc of warm water three times per/day) and always flush after the dog has eaten. A very good way to keep the food out of the wounds is to use a blender and make his food into a wet pasty mixture, then make small golf ball size balls and feed them to the dog by hand, he will swallow them and this will keep the food from accumulating in these wounds.
Torn ears and punctures deep with in the ears can also become a problem. The best way to treat torn ears is to keep them dry, therefore after cleaning the wound take a DRY towel and apply pressure, it may take several minutes in order for the bleeding to stop and quit, actually you may need to allow the ear to coagulate a clot on it's own because the dogs have a tendency to shake there heads vigorously and this just starts the bleeding all over again, don't become overly concerned, unless the tear is extremely bad, the ear will clot on it's own. Puncture wounds within the ear itself should be dealt with just as I described in the puncture wound paragraph.
Torn or lacerated pads, over the years I've found that applying sutures or staples to torn pads is useless, the best thing to do for them is to keep them clean by flushing the pad one time with Hydrogen Peroxide, and every cleaning after this will be done with Batedine. A good way to accomplish this will be to take a small bucket and place his whole foot into the cleaning solution, let the injured foot soak for 5 minutes, then remove the paw and pack the torn pad in Nitrofurizone, wrap it in clean gauze, then take a clean sock and place the sock over the paw, pull the sock up as far as it will go then tape it to the leg. You should sit with the dog for 2 or more hours to allow the Nitrofurizone to soak into the wound, then remove the sock, dressing and wipe clean. Do this three-time per/day, NOTE: never leave the dog unattended with the dressing on his foot, many dogs with chew this dressing off and swallow it.
Antibiotics, which ones, how often, etc, etc. Well, first we need to talk a little about bacteria, there are two types of bacteria that cause the most problems in wounds and they are Gram Positive and Gram Negative bacteria, without getting to technical in this area I will make a long story short, with the type of wounds that these dogs encounter you need to use a broad spectrum antibiotic. This simply means that you need an antibiotic that kills both Gram Positive and Gram Negative bacteria. There are numerous products on the market that work very well and I will name the ones that I have had the best success with. Baytril 60mg would be my first choice followed by Keflex/Cephalexin 500mg, Amoxicillin 400mgs and last would be the injectable Penicillin type. I generally use a double dose for the first initially dose, example: Keflex 500mg two tablets for the first dose, (1000mg) then one tablet every 12 hours for 10 days. Choose one of these antibiotics for minor to severe wounds and keep to the schedule for 10 days; however, if you have an extreme infection, use the Combination described below. Note: if you are treating a dog who weighs less than 35lbs, cut the antibiotic dose in half. Also, if you notice extreme diarrhea cut back on your dose, diarrhea is a sign of antibiotic poisoning.
Combinations, if you ever encounter an abscess or mouth wound that seems out of control, a good combination as an example to use is Baytril 60mgs along with Keflex 500mgs given together at 8am, followed by Keflex 500mgs at 2pm, followed by Baytril 60mg and Keflex 500mgs at 8pm. Follow this program for the worst case infections along with the recommended cleaning and flushing of the various wounds, this is the best combination of antibiotics that you can use, but as I said ONLY use this type combination recommendation for the worst case scenario. Note: (if you are using Dexamethazone after the accident, try to limit it's use to three days, example: 3cc's first day, 2cc's second day and 1cc third day, if you use Dex for a long period of time it will slow down the healing process.)
Well, there you have it, a simple and effective basic routine that has been around for many years; the catch here is that it takes work on your part to be successful in good wound care. To often neglect of wounds ends up leading to unnecessary loss of tissue, or an abscess that is chronic in nature because the wound was never really dealt with correctly and lastly possible loss of life. If you take the time to deal with these wounds for 10 days it will pay off in many years of health in your animal, have you ever noticed that swellings/ abscesses occur when the wound seems to have been healed, but when you start working the dog for a show, his immune system becomes stressed and he develops an abscess where an old wound once was, if the wound was correctly managed the first time this would NOT have occurred. Now you have a dog in keep that you will need to administer some type of antibiotic when this could have all been avoided. This is just one example of poor wound care management coming back to haunt you at a later date. Good luck with the dogs and remember that wound care does not have to be complicated, just put in some effort and keep it simple.
-Popeye-

The common definition is the ability to exert a force against a resistance. The strength needed for a sprinter to explode from the blocks is different to the strength needed by a weight lifter to lift a 200kg barbell. This therefore implies that there are different types of strength.

· Maximum strength -the greatest force that is possible in a single maximum contraction

· Elastic strength - the ability to overcome a resistance with a fast contraction

A muscle will only strengthen when it is worked beyond its normal operation, it is overloaded. Overload can be progressed by increasing the :

Exercise scientists have identified nine elements that comprise the definition of conditioning. The following lists each of the nine elements and an example of how they are used:

1. Strength - the extent to which muscles can exert force by contracting against resistance (holding or restraining an object )

2. Power - the ability to exert maximum muscular contraction instantly in an explosive burst of movements (sprint starting)

3. Agility - the ability to perform a series of explosive power movements in rapid succession in opposing directions (ZigZag running or cutting movements)

4. Balance - the ability to control the body's position, either stationary or while moving.

5. Flexibility - the ability to achieve an extended range of motion without being impeded by excess tissue, i.e. fat or muscle

7. Cardiovascular Endurance - the heart's ability to deliver blood to working muscles and their ability to use it (Running long distances)

8. Strength Endurance - a muscle's ability to perform a maximum contracture time after time

9. Co-ordination - the ability to integrate the above listed components so that effective movements are achieved.

Of all the nine elements of fitness, strength and cardiac respiratory qualities are the most important to develop because they enhance all the other components of the conditioning equation.

The objective of endurance training is to develop the energy production system(s) to meet the demands of
the event.

In the body, food energy is used to manufacture adenosine triphosphate (ATP) the chemical compound that supplies energy for muscular contraction. Since ATP is in very low concentrations in the muscle, and since it decreases only to a minor extent, even in the most intense voluntary contraction, tightly controlled energy pathways exist for the continual regeneration of ATP as muscular contraction continues.

For continuous exercise, ATP must be re-synthesised at the same rate as it is utilised.

The types of endurance are Aerobic endurance, Anaerobic endurance, Speed endurance and Strength endurance. A sound basis of aerobic endurance is fundamental for all events.

Aerobic means 'with oxygen'. During aerobic work the body is working at a level that the demands for oxygen and fuel can be meet by the body's intake. The only waste products formed are carbon dioxide and water. These are removed as sweat and by breathing out.

Short aerobic - 2 minutes to 8 minutes (lactic/aerobic)
Medium aerobic - 8 minutes to 30 minutes (mainly aerobic)
Long aerobic - 30 minutes + (aerobic)

Duration runs to improve maximum oxygen uptake (VO2max)
Interval training to improve the heart as a muscular pump.

Anaerobic means 'without oxygen'. During anaerobic work, involving maximum effort, the body is working so hard that the demands for oxygen and fuel exceed the rate of supply and the muscles have to rely on the stored reserves of fuel. In this case waste products accumulate, the chief one being lactic acid. The muscles, being starved of oxygen, take the body into a state known as oxygen debt. The body's stored fuel soon runs out and activity ceases - painfully. Activity will not be resumed until the lactic acid is removed and the oxygen debt repaid. Fortunately the body can resume limited activity after even only a small proportion of the oxygen debt has been repaid. Since lactic acid is produced the correct term for this pathway is lactic anaerobic energy pathway. The alactic anaerobic pathway is the one in which the body is working anaerobically but without the production of lactic acid. This pathway can exist only so long as the fuel actually stored in the muscle lasts, approximately 4 seconds at maximum effort.

Short anaerobic - less than 25 seconds (mainly alactic)
Medium anaerobic - 25 seconds to 60 seconds (mainly lactic)
Long anaerobic - 60 seconds to 120 seconds (lactic +aerobic)

Anaerobic endurance can be developed by using repetition methods of relatively high intensity work with limited recovery.

Speed endurance is used to develop the co-ordination of muscle contraction in the climate of endurance.
Repetition methods are used with a high number of sets, low number of repetitions per set and an intensity greater than 85% with distances covered from 60% to 120% of usual distance.

Strength endurance is used to develop the dog's capacity to maintain the quality of his muscles' contractile force in a climate of endurance. All athlete dogs need to develop a basic level of strength endurance. Examples of activities to develop strength endurance are - circuit training, weight training, hill running, weight harness running, etc.

Speed is the quickness of movement of limb, whether this be the legs or the neck of the dog. Speed is an integral part of every sport and can be expressed as any one of, or combination of, the following

Speed is influenced by the dog's mobility, special strength, strength endurance and ability.

Energy for absolute speed is supplied by the anaerobic alactic pathway. The anaerobic (without oxygen) alactic (without lactate) energy system is best challenged as an dog approaches top speed between 15' and 20' while running at 95% to 100% of maximum. This speed component of anaerobic metabolism lasts for approximately six seconds and should be trained when no muscle fatigue is present (usually after 24 to 36 hours of rest)

The stimulation, excitation and correct firing order of the motor units, composed of a motor nerve (Neuron) and the group of muscles that it supplies, makes it possible for high frequency movements to occur. The whole process is not totally clear but the complex coordination and timing of the motor units and muscles most certainly must be rehearsed at high speeds to implant the correct patterns.

Flexibility and a correct warm up will affect stride length and frequency. Stride length can be improved by developing muscular strength, power, strength endurance. The development of speed is highly specific and to achieve it we should ensure that :

· Speed training is performed by using high velocity for brief intervals. This will ultimately bring into play the correct neuromuscular pathways and energy sources used.

· Skill development (schooling) is pre-learned, before the real thing in the pit.

It is important to remember that the improvement of speed is a complex process which is controlled by the brain and nervous system. In order for a dog to move more quickly, the leg muscles of course have to contract more quickly, but the brain and nervous system also have to learn to control these faster movements efficiently. If you maintain some form of speed training throughout the year, his muscles and nervous system does not loose the feel of moving fast and the brain will not have to re-learn the proper control patterns at a later date.

In the training week speed work should be carried out after a period of rest or light training. In a training session speed work should be conducted after the warm up and any other training should be of low intensity.

The dogs start uphill and the coach standing downhill some 100m from the dog then gives a signal for release and the dog will run towards him/her at slightly faster than normal pace. Repeat using various starting positions and with the coach standing in different places so that the dogs have to change directions quickly once they begin to run. Speed reaction drills can also be conducted with the coach controlling an item (fishing rod with a small ball) while the dog is trying to catch the object.

· Work on running at velocities which are actually faster than usual over short work intervals

· Train at pace in order to enhance their neuromuscular coordination, confidence and stamina at their desired speed

· At first, utilize long recoveries, but as he gets fitter and faster shorten the recovery periods between work intervals to make his training more specific and realistic. Also move on to longer work intervals, as he is able

· Work on their aerobic capacity and lactate threshold, conduct some easy pace runs to burn calories and permit recovery from the speed sessions

· Work on their mobility to develop a range of movement (range of motion at their hips will effect speed) and assist in the prevention of injury

For a number of sports acceleration and speed over a short distance (10-50m) is very important An explanation on how to develop a programme to meet your dog's need can be found on our keep program.

Almost every trainer is constantly looking for ways to increase the speed of their dogs. Many different methods of speed training are available today, with many of the newest innovations trickling down from our athletes like GABI SZABO (1999 winner of Golden League).

Over the years the Romanians have been innovative in their experimentation with everything from anabolic steroids to pre-selecting elementary children for future athletic careers. I was introduced to the Romanian method of sprint training (plyo-metrics) during the early 1990's and was impressed with the increased performance and reduced stop-watch time of each dog who trained in this fashion.

As a trainer it is important to understand that there are only two ways of improving speed:

Many trainers are mislead by stride length. They believe the stride can be improved in running by "reaching" out further with the lead or front legs. It is the back or "driving legs" that determines the ground they cover in a given amount of time. The greater the back leg power, the better the chance of developing a longer stride. This back legs power and increased stride can be developed through the traditional training: running steps, and running up hills. Stride frequency refers to how fast the dog legs actually move during the sprint. Genetics determine faster stride frequency in many of the elite dogs.

It is a common belief still today by many trainers that stride frequency cannot be improved with training. I disagree, especially after seeing improvements in the dogs that I worked with.

The idea is to train the body beyond its normal capacity which will allow the dog to get the most their training. By prompting their legs to move faster than they can move through normal training, you can achieve your goal in speed training. This is the principle behind downhill training which is part of the plyo-metric philosophy for increasing performance. The best way that I have found to implement the program is over an eight week period. The speed work is performed on Monday, and Friday, while the endurance-training days are scheduled for Tuesday and Saturday.

It is important to implement a concentrated program first of warm-up and then flexibility to reduce the chance of injury.

Week 1 through 7 the work-out for sprinting remains basically the same, with the work consisting of 12 repetitions of 50 yard sprints. The first week the sprints are run on a flat surface.

During week 2 through 8 a 10 degree downhill slope is introduced, increasing up to a 45 degree downhill slope by week 8. Talk about steep!

Downhill sprint training works in the following way: Moving to the downhill slope will increase his speed an average of two-tenths of a second.

The pull of gravity is forcing the dog to run faster than he would be able to prevent falling. It is important to concentrate of good form and drive while running downhill. During this 8-week training period the dog will increase his speed as his body has adjusted to the fast stride frequency, and the legs can move through space as much greater speeds.

The lone drawback to this type of training: dogs peak very fast employing this type of training. This new level of speed can only be maintained for a short period of time. The dog will be able to maintain this speed for approximately eight weeks. This type of training can be cycled two to three times per year (in pre-keep) for optimum results.

Demodectic Mange and Inexpensive Treatment

Demodectic mange is a condition seen in both dogs and cats caused by different species of Demodex mites. It is interesting to note that Demodex mites are present on the skin of all normal animals, including people, and usually exist in small numbers within the hair follicles. Demodectic mange is therefore considered non-contagious since all animals already have these mites. Apparently, animals are not born with the mites but acquire them from their mothers in the first few days of life, during the nursing process.

If Demodex mites are present on all normal animals, why do some animals develop mange and most do not? Animals with mange may have an inherited or acquired immune defect that fails to keep the mite numbers in check. The result is a demodectic mite population explosion which not only crowds the hairs within hair follicles and results in bacterial infections, but the mites produce other substances that then further compromise the immune system. It is important to remember that these mites are normal residents on the skin (albeit in small numbers) and reflect an underlying important defect of the immune system. The proliferation of mites is therefore an effect, rather than a cause, of the condition. In young animals, which are most commonly affected with mange, the condition likely reflects an inherited incompetence of the immune system.

Not all young animals afflicted with mange are destined to be immunologically handicapped for life. A large percentage tend to self-cure when they reach immunologic maturity which may range from 8 months to 3 years of age, depending on the breed. It is estimated that 90% of pups affected will improve naturally if given supportive care. The 10% which are considered to have generalized mange should be considered to be immunologically crippled but can be made symptomatically better by using treatments to kill the mite population, and thereby lessening the incidence of bacterial infections.

This is where the cost to keep an infected dog may be entirely too much if you take the dog to a Veterinarian. A Vet will use a multitude of expensive treatments which usually include cleansing shampoos, antibiotic therapy, topical insecticides (Mitaban (Rx) or its active ingredient Amitraz), and immune stimulants. The cost for the Veterinarian treatments along with the cost of the office visits will add up to hundreds of dollars per year. Once again, I want to remind everyone that I am not a Veterinarian, but rather a long time Beagle kennel owner. I'll tell you what I have used and done in the past, you can use your own judgment whether you want to follow in my footsteps. This article is presented only as a documentation of how I have treated Demodectic Mange in some Beagles that I have owned at a fraction of the cost that a Veterinarian will charge for the expensive medications, therapies, insecticides, and shampoos.

Patchy hair loss in a dog can be caused by several things, but the two most common causes are ringworms and demodectic mange. The diagnosis of mange is usually not difficult if the skin is firmly squeezed (to express the mites from the follicles), then scraped with a scalpel blade, and the collected material examined with a microscope. The adult mites are often described as resembling cigars or alligators and the eggs are more tear drop-shaped. If scrapings are not done, the mites are easily seen on biopsy specimens within the hair follicle. If you decide to use a treatment (such as the one I will describe) to kill the mites specifically, you should do so with the assumption that you are dealing with an immunologically handicapped animal. This warrants spaying or neutering of the pet and making sure it does not contribute to future generations of immunologically-disabled pets. If it is determined that your pet has ringworms, please check out my article on Canine Ringworms and Inexpensive Treatment. Also, the medication given for heartworm prevention has a second benefit in keeping your Beagle free of Demodex mites.

The easiest and most inexpensive treatment to kill the mites on dogs that are kept outdoors, and heal minor bacterial infections is a two part treatment. First, bathe the mange infected dog with an inexpensive dog shampoo or dishwashing liquid detergent while using a firm, bristle brush to scrub off any scabs or scaly skin. Second, dip a rag in used automobile motor oil and generously apply the oil to the infected area along with the surrounding hair. DO NOT get the oil in the dogs ears or eyes. This treatment will kill the mites that are causing the hair loss/bacterial skin infections, is safe to use on your dog, and the used motor oil acts as a moisturizer to help stop itching. This treatment will work in 98% of all mange infected animals, especially those without any major bacterial skin infections.

A second treatment, recommended by a Beagler friend of mine, that works extremely well is a dip called Mitoban and it only costs about -12 per bottle. It is very good and it works better than Paramite dip which is very good especially for fleas and ticks, and may work well on sarcoptic mange, but not demodectic mange. Simply dip your Beagle once every 10 days for three treatments. You should also use a good dandruff shampoo between dips if loose scaly skin is a problem. Cortisone cream is great for severe itching, and any of many topical antibiotic ointments are great for preventing or treating secondary bacterial infections.

A third treatment that works very well and is also fairly inexpensive is the use of Ivomec for cattle. This is the same medication talked about in the article called Canine Heartworms and Inexpensive Prevention. If you are going to buy the Ivomec for the heartworm prevention, then you might as well use it for getting rid of mange mites as well as ear mites. I administer a subcutaneous (under the skin) injection at the back of the neck, consisting of 1/10 cc of Ivomec for cattle per 10 lbs of Beagle body weight. I give one shot every seven days for 3 consecutive doses. Explained differently, that is one shot, wait 7 days, give a second shot, wait 7 more days, and then give a third shot. This is a very effective treatment for both mange mites and ear mites. If you are already buying the large bottles of Ivomec for cattle to use as a heartworm prevention, then you might as well also use it for this purpose when needed. This is a very clean treatment method, and for maximum effectiveness can be used in conjunction with the first or second treatment method listed above.

No matter which of these three inexpensive treatments you may decide to use, the main thing is to do the treatment and follow ups correctly and in a timely manner. If done correctly and in a timely manner, you will definitely see the mange spots healing up with hair growing back into the hair loss areas. At this point you can discontinue the treatments and only start them again if you see another episode of mange developing. Both of these treatments are only designed to kill the mites and thus stop the hair loss and bacterial skin infections. The dog will look healthy and feel much better with no hair loss, skin infections, or itching. The cause of the overpopulation of Demodex mites (mange) is a bad immune system which can be passed genetically to any offspring. REMEMBER, this warrants spaying or neutering of the pet and making sure it does not contribute to future generations of immunologically-disabled pets.

How is demodectic mange treated No.2?
Cephelexin 500 mg - 14 days , 2x a day.
Virbac Pyoben - Shampoo dog night before dipping.
leave on 5min then rinse
Now the nasty stuff!!! Mitaban dip concentrate amiytraz - mix 5.0 ml / 1 gallon water sponge on dry dog.

Demodectic Mange 2
By Race Foster, DVM
and Joe Bodewes, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
Veterinary Services Department

CH ABLIZIN'S LUTHER ROM

Demodectic mange (also known as red mange, follicular mange, or puppy mange) is a skin disease, generally of young dogs caused, by the mite, Demodex canis. It may surprise you to know that this same mite lives, without causing any harm or irritation, on the bodies of virtually every adult dog and most human beings. These small (0.25 mm) "alligator-like" mites live inside of the hair follicles (i.e., the pore within the skin through which the hair shaft comes through), hence the name follicular mange. In humans, the mites usually are found in the skin, eyelids and the creases of the nose.

Whether or not Demodex causes harm to a dog depends on the animal's ability to keep the mite under control. Demodectic mange is not a disease of poorly kept or dirty kennels. It is generally a disease of young dogs that have inadequate or poorly developed immune systems or older dogs that are suffering from a depressed immune system.

What is the life cycle of Demodex canis?
The demodectic mite spends it's entire life on the dog. Eggs are laid by a pregnant female, hatch, and then mature from larvae to nymphs to adults. The life cycle is believed to take 20-35 days.

How is Demodex canis transmitted?
The mites are transferred directly from the mother to the puppies within the first week of life. Transmission of the mites is by direct contact only. That is, the mother and puppy must be physically touching, as the parasite cannot survive off of the animal. This is important because it means the kennel or bedding area does not become contaminated and therefore the environment need not be treated. Lesions, if present, usually appear first around the puppy's head, as this is the area most in contact with the mother. Virtually every mother carries and transfers mites to her puppies. Most puppies are immune to the mite's effects and display no clinical signs or lesions. A few are not immune and it is these that develop into full-blown cases of mange.

What are the signs of demodectic mange?
Individuals that are sensitive to the mange mites may develop a few (less than 5) isolated lesions (localized mange) or they may have generalized mange in which case there are more than 5 lesions involving the entire body or region of the body. Most lesions in either form develop after four months of age.

The lesions and signs of demodectic mange usually involve hair loss, crusty, red skin and at times a greasy or moist appearance. The mites prefer to live in the hair follicles, so in most cases hair loss is the first noted sign. Usually hair loss begins around the muzzle, eyes and other areas on the head. In localized mange, a few circular crusty areas will be noted, most frequently around the muzzle. Most of these lesions will self heal as the puppies become older and develop their own immunity. Persistent lesions will need treatment that will be described later. In cases in which the whole body is involved (generalized mange) there will be areas of hair loss over the entire coat, including the head, neck, abdomen, legs and feet. The skin along the head, side, and back will be crusty and often times inflamed. It will often crack and ooze a clear fluid. Hair will be scant, but the skin itself will often be oily to the touch. Some animals can become quite ill and develop a fever, lose their appetite and become lethargic. Patients with generalized demodectic mange need immediate vigorous treatment.

How is demodectic mange diagnosed?
Once Demodectic mange is suspected it can usually be confirmed by a skin scraping or biopsy in which the mites can be seen with the aid of a microscope. They are too small to be seen with the naked eye. The adults appear as tiny alligator-like mites. Remember that these mites are present in every dog so by themselves they do not constitute a diagnosis of mange. The mite must be coupled with the lesions for a diagnosis of mange to be made.

How is demodectic mange treated?
The treatment of Demodectic mange is usually accomplished with lotions dips and shampoos. Fortunately 90% of demodectic mange cases are localized in which only a few small areas are involved and can often be treated topically. A treatment that has been successful for years has been a 1% rotenone ointment (Goodwinol ointment) or more recently a 5% benzoyl peroxide gel applied daily. Bathing periodically with a benzoyl peroxide shampoo and feeding a high quality diet and a multi vitamin with a fatty acid may also help some dogs. Most of these localized lesions will heal on their own and do not require overly aggressive treatment.

If a dog develops generalized demodicosis more aggressive treatment is usually required. Studies show that between 30% and 50% of dogs that develop the generalized form will recover on their own without treatment but treatment is still always recommended for the generalized form. The treatment of choice continues to be Amitraz dips applied every two weeks. Amitraz is an organophosphate and is generally available under the product name Mitaban. It is a prescription product and should be applied with care. Humans should always wear rubber gloves when applying it to their dog, and it should be applied in an area with adequate ventilation. It is recommended that longhaired dogs be clipped short so that the dip can make good contact with the skin. Prior to dipping, the dog should be bathed with a benzoyl peroxide shampoo to help remove oil and cellular debris.

Most dogs with generalized demodicosis require between 4 and 14 dips. After the first three or four dips a skin scraping should be performed to determine if the mites have been eliminated. Dips should continue until there have been no mites found on the skin scrapings taken after 2 successive treatments. Some dogs develop sedation or nausea when dipped and toy breeds in particular are sensitive to amitraz. Half strength dips should be used on these sensitive animals.

Ivermectin should not be used in collies and similar breeds.

Some dogs may not respond to this treatment and the frequency of the dips may have to be increased or additional treatments may need to be instituted. Recently, two new products have been used to help treat demodicosis. These products are not FDA approved for the treatment of demodectic mange, but are being widely used by veterinary dermatologists and general practitioners with some good results. Ivermectin is a broad-spectrum de-worming agent that is available in a 1% solution for cattle. Ivermectin is the active ingredient in Heart Guard, however the concentration in Heart Guard is not high enough to be effective against Demodex. The liquid ivermectin is given daily and continued for thirty days after the mites have been eliminated. It should only be used under close veterinary supervision. Another drug, Milbemycin oxime, (Interceptor) has also been given daily and been shown to be effective on up to 50% of the dogs that did not respond to Mitaban dips.

Dogs that have generalized demodicosis often have underlying skin infections so antibiotics are often given for the first several weeks of treatment. In addition we usually recommend the dog be put on a good multi-vitamin/ fatty acid supplement. Because Demodex flourishes on dogs with a suppressed immune system it is wise to check for underlying causes of immune system disease, particularly if the animal is older when they develop the condition.

Prognosis and impact on breeding
Demodectic mange is not an inherited condition but the suppressed immune system that allows the puppy to be susceptible to the mites can be. Remember that all puppies receive the mites from their mother but only a few have ineffective immune systems and develop the mange. This sensitivity can be passed genetically through generations. Individuals that have a history of demodectic mange, and their parents and siblings, should not be bred. Through careful breeding most cases of generalized Demodicosis could be eliminated.

Can I get Demodex from my dog?
The various species of Demodex mites tend to infest only one species of host animal, i.e., Demodex canis infests dogs, Demodex bovis infests cattle, and Demodex folliculorum infests humans.

Conclusion
In conclusion, a few important points should be repeated. The mites are transferred from the mother to offspring in the first few days of life. The first sign of hair loss usually does not occur until after four months of age. Demodectic mange is almost always curable or controllable with persistent treatment except in rare cases with very immune suppressed individuals. The immune system condition that allows for the development of demodectic mange can be an inherited condition and breeding of these animals should not occur.

At the hour mark both Grand Champions were still setting a fast pace. Neither STP's Buck or Rebel's Sandman could get much ahead of the other one. It was obvious that this was going to be a long one and I had the I.V. fluids, Azium and other equipment ready to go. At 3:17 Buck made one more running scratch and it was over. Both corners hustled their dogs over to their medical supplies and went to work trying to save these great bulldogs. Sandman died and Buck lived.

What saved Buck was no magic secret drug or anything of the sort. Buck received intravenous (I.V.) fluids and Azium-the same treatment you can learn to perform on your dog.

Dogs die from low volume (hypovolemic) shock. Blood has pooled in the dog's tissues and is no longer circulating around the dog's body. This lack of volume can be restored with I.V. fluids.

I like to run Lactated Ringers solution through the cephalic vein on the dog's front leg. You can also use the Jugular (neck vein) or the vein over the hock in the hind leg. Place a tourniquet above the dog's elbow which will cause the vein to increase in size and thus easier to hit. Using an 18-gauge needle, thrust through the skin and into, but not through the vein. The needle should be seated in the center of the vein. If the vein is punctured, the I.V. fluids will leak out into the surrounding tissues, causing swelling around the injection site.

The mechanics of correctly seating the needle in the vein are the hardest part of starting an I.V. Practice starting an I.V. on your yard dogs. You will need a friend to restrain the dog while you insert the needle in the vein. Continue to practice until you feel comfortable performing this procedure. You will have a tough time starting an I.V. on a shocky dog if you have not practiced these techniques.

Once the needle is correctly seated in the vein, secure it in position by taping it to the dog's leg. Attach the I.V. tubing or hook-up to the needle hub after running any air out of the line. You can now inject lOcc of Azium (Dexamethezone) into the injection port on the I.V. line. Try to keep the dog's leg extended because the fluids will stop running if he tucks his leg under his chest.

After the I.V. is running and you've given lOcc of Azium clean off any wounds with Betadyne and water. Then you pay off or collect any bets, talk dogs and have a brew.

I like to run two liters in a 40-pound dog in an hour. A larger dog would take more fluids and a smaller dog less fluids. The most common mistake I see is not running enough fluids or running them under the skin. You can be very aggressive in Managing shock. The best time to start an I.V. is right in the pit before the shock sets in and the venous system starts to collapse. Get the I.V. started and then move the dog to a more quiet area.

Here is a list of equipment of carry to the match:

Lactated Ringers - three liters (Sterile)
Azium - 2mg per cc concentration (Sterile)
I.V. tubing or hook-up (Sterile)
Betadyne
Tape
18 gauge sterile needles
Coat hanger - to hang I.V. bottle off branch or bar
Tourniquet - rubber tubing
Towels

These procedures have worked well for me. Only one of the fifty-six dogs I conditioned and handled died, and that death came from heat stroke. In addition, many other match dogs (like Gr. Ch. Buck) survived after having these procedures performed on them. Written by the late Ben Calopy "Barney Fife"